Resurface Question - 2000 vs 4000 Abralon

[gchief]

Edited this post because it is a double post. Two of the same threads were started . I merged the two together.

[gchief]

I had my Hammer Blue Vibe resurfaced this week at the proshop. The guy asked me what I wanted it resurfaced at 2000 or 4000 abralon. I said 2000.

So what can I expect now on the lane and what would be the difference if had it done at 4000.

I have had my blue vibe for over two years and have had resurfaced before, but I have not been asked this question before.

Thanks

[mmcfarland300]

In theory it should pick up its roll earlier and be smoother than if done at 4000. If it had been done at 4000 it would have been slightly longer and more angular.

[BubbaRay]

I had my Hammer Blue Vibe resurfaced and polished this week. The guy at the pro shop asked what I wanted it polished at 2000 or 4000. I said 2000.

My question is what can I expect on the lane now at 2000 and what would the difference be at 4000.

I like my Blue Vibe and have had it for over 2 years, and occassionally had it resurfaced but they have never asked me what to use (Abralon).

Thanks.

It depends on your oil pattern that will also dictate how these two surfaces will react.

Lets take for example, Hammer's Black Widow, which comes at 4000 grit from the factory. You are interested by the ball, but worry that it might be too strong for you, so you decide to put a weaker drill on it. However, when you go and use it for the first time, you realize that it is actually too weak, and you are having trouble getting the ball to face the pocket. Here's where the abralon pads come in. With 4000 grit being very smooth, which promotes length, you have the ability to take the ball down to say, 2000 or even 1000 grit, which will make it roll a bit earlier, allowing it to get to the pocket.

The opposite can be said for a ball that comes very rough from the factory. You may find the ball to be reacting too early for you, so you can use a higher grit abralon pad to smooth out the surface and give you some added length. Just remember, the higher the grit, the smoother the pad, and the more length you are going to get.

Now you like the reaction you are getting from your Black Widow at , 2000 grit, but it is just reacting the slightest bit early for you. By taking the surface to 4000 grit, it might go a bit too long, which leaves you between a rock and a hard place. Here's where polish can take center stage. Adding a bit of polish to a dulled ball will give you some length, but you will be able to control how long the ball will go by the amount of polish you apply. A very light coat on a dull ball will add maybe 1-2 more feet in length, which might be just what you are looking for. Looking at it the other way around, if a ball comes out of the box at 4000 grit POLISHED, and it is going a bit long for you, you can simply knock the polish off to reduce the added length.

[gchief]

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it! That makes sense.

Also sorry for the double post.

[BowlingParent]

Great explaination Bubba, thanks again.

I've heard different surface recommendations & suggestions over the years, but your wording makes it much simpler to understand.. Altering the surface with grit & then a polish is a new to me, It was always suggested one or the other..
Always great info on this forum..

My 0.02 for what its worth, is after a surface change, get some gamers on the ball before making further decisions/changes. It seems the track/ball needs to wear in again before the ball starts to react as it will/should. My daughter gets her feathers ruffled when I have her balls baked & given a 2000 light sand, because the scores always drop at first, but I just tell her to bowl some more. Like clock work, the scores always come back up.