View Full Version : anyconcerns with plugging a ball, does it lose anything?
MaxHammer
03-15-2007, 11:49 AM
just wondering what the concerns are, if there are any, with plugging a ball and getting a different layout
Will the ball be the same or will I lose something when plugging it
Thanks
Crusher279757
03-15-2007, 12:15 PM
Only if you plug the ball a lot, and if you plug it in different places.
MaxHammer
03-15-2007, 12:21 PM
it would only be once but I would probably have to plug everything inlcuding the balance hole
just bought a ball and Im not happy with the layout. Im gonna put about 20-30 games on it before I do anything and possibly change the surface. This is the second ball Ive bought from this pro shop both with similar layouts and Im just not getting anywhere close to the same reaction I am with my Paradigm that I had drilled at a different shop and has a different layout
BradM
03-15-2007, 01:05 PM
got any pics of the layout?
MaxHammer
03-15-2007, 01:27 PM
the first pic is the Angular One I just bought that Im not happy the layout and the second pic is my Paradigm that I like and does exactly what I want. I bowl from the right side and aim at the first or second arrow depending on how the lanes are. As I mentioned this is the second ball I bought from this shop, the first being a Black Widow with the same layout and I had the same problem with that one as well
I dont claim to know everything so if Im wrong here let me know or if there is something you would recommend I would be more then happy to hear it
thanks for the help
BradM
03-15-2007, 02:26 PM
This would start the move earlier and give you more overall hook. Is that what you are looking for? Everyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I'm no ball driller by any means.
LotsOfRevs
03-15-2007, 02:32 PM
This would start the move earlier and give you more overall hook. Is that what you are looking for?
Nice layout Brad! This thing would hit like a Mack truck as well. Looks just like my buddies ball and his has a good midlane read, then has a smooth arcing motion towards the pocket and just drives through the pins! Wouldn't want to try and throw it on a short pattern though;)
MaxHammer
03-15-2007, 02:50 PM
This would start the move earlier and give you more overall hook. Is that what you are looking for? Everyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I'm no ball driller by any means.
thanks...guess the best way for me to describe what Im looking for is more backend snap once it hits some friction
if plugging and redrilling wont hurt the ball then Im going to look into that but if plugging diminishes the ball in anyway then I am probably going to try and change the surface first
suggestions?
LotsOfRevs
03-15-2007, 03:09 PM
thanks...guess the best way for me to describe what Im looking for is more backend snap once it hits some friction
if plugging and redrilling wont hurt the ball then Im going to look into that but if plugging diminishes the ball in anyway then I am probably going to try and change the surface first
suggestions?
I would try to change the surface first anyways, try having it taken down to 500 grit or so and then putting a polish on it. The polish will help it get through the heads clean. Don't plug it unless you are totally unhappy with the layout, plugging will not hurt the ball unless it is in your new track area or it is done a bunch of times.
BradM
03-15-2007, 03:11 PM
thanks...guess the best way for me to describe what Im looking for is more backend snap once it hits some friction
if plugging and redrilling wont hurt the ball then Im going to look into that but if plugging diminishes the ball in anyway then I am probably going to try and change the surface first
suggestions?
You could go ahead and play with the surface and see what happens. And no, plugging and redrilling shouldn't hurt the ball any. There are tons of plugged and redrilled balls out there and I don't think I've ever seen one person say anything about it hurting their balls reaction unless they've had it done 4 or 5 times. But, first redrill should be fine.
MaxHammer
03-15-2007, 03:28 PM
thanks guys I appreciate the help...Im gonna talk to the guy that drilled my Paradigm tonight and see if I should play with the surface or just have it plugged and redrilled now
thanks again, always good to have someone elses opinion on things
BradM
03-19-2007, 03:36 PM
thanks guys I appreciate the help...Im gonna talk to the guy that drilled my Paradigm tonight and see if I should play with the surface or just have it plugged and redrilled now
thanks again, always good to have someone elses opinion on things
Hey, just wondering if you decided what you were going to do yet.
Abejr
03-19-2007, 03:38 PM
First it looks like the driller was just experimenting with your 200 investment!!! plus it looked like a bad plug job. if you look at the length of the ball shell rating shiny vs. dull. Be very carefull in choosing a ball that is hot right now, it may not be good for you!
The important thing in choosing a ball is where do you plan to play the lanes?? volume of oil,length, boundries (where the dry is if any)
So #1 is surface shell hook is created by the ability of the ball to slow down (go from a skid to a roll)
#2 pin placement in relation to pap (positive axis point) everyone's unique this is choosen by YOU AND THE DRILLER so do your homework its your money!! if your driller doesnt know these things take your BALLS and run.
#3 axis tilt (hand placement, how the ball is released) end over end, etc.
the final issue is has your pro shop operater gotten his certification and will stand by his /her work or is he/she just using you for pratice??
BradM
03-19-2007, 03:44 PM
plus it looked like a bad plug job.
:D I think you're looking at the picture that I modified using MS Paint (only program I have on this computer to mess with pictures). I put those red dots on there to help suggest a stronger drilling for him.
Abejr
07-30-2007, 03:18 AM
you could try a "lable leverage" this drilling is very readable and very strong off the spot for house conditions (7-15 boards). The pin would be in a position near your ring finger or to the right (for right handers) "pin positive position" and your "cg" center of gravity would be near the center of your grip. This type of drilling gets into a roll soon but still retains energy for power at the breakpoint. It is probably very different from most drillings that you see. because it can be mistaken for a left handers drilling. BUT IT NOT, because the pin is close to your PAP IT WILL FLIP LIKE A DUMP TRUCK!! I have several balls with this drilling and score well. I've averaged around 215 for the last 7-10 years!! keep in mind that surface prep is the most important issue you will face....in order for your ball to change direction it MUST LOSE SOME ENERGY !!!
Good Luck and Good Bowling
Abe
Abejr
07-30-2007, 03:20 AM
:D I think you're looking at the picture that I modified using MS Paint (only program I have on this computer to mess with pictures). I put those red dots on there to help suggest a stronger drilling for him.
ok cool!! i was going to tell that member to run from that pro shop!!!
mongoliantreesloth
07-30-2007, 07:19 AM
I've got an Orange/Teal Brunswick Groove that is currently on it's 3rd finger and 4th thumb and out of all the balls I have I like it the most. Don't use it much though cos it's a 14 whereas all my other stuff is 15.
Been toying with dropping a pound for a while now but i guess I should buy another 14 for oilier conditions and try that before doing anything too hasty.
Rowdy
07-30-2007, 05:28 PM
Why is everyone dropping weight off the ball? I mean I spent most of science class day dreaming about what the teacher looked like.......well,you know. But I still stayed awake enough to remember that a HEAVIER object will impart MORE force on whatever it hits. The less the ball weighs,the LESS energy will be available to knock down the pins. Meaning? Go down in weight and watch those 8 and 9 pins stay up! The head and 5 pin will deflect the ball just enough that you will NOT get the action you need to take out the whole rack.I'm NOT saying you won't get strikes,but your margin of error will be so small that you'll be lucky to hit it about 10% of the time. Oh,and the teacher? She looked better than I thought when we went out a couple of years after I got out of school!
Rowdy
07-30-2007, 05:30 PM
Oh shit,I forgot,plug all you want. Doesn't matter to the ball at all.
Thepainscoming
07-30-2007, 06:27 PM
It wont lose reaction most of the time, just if ur driller isn't careful enough and let it cure enough, it could crack.
Rowdy
07-30-2007, 07:46 PM
You are correct. I WAS assuming that the pro shop knew how to do it right.
Thepainscoming
07-30-2007, 07:54 PM
You are correct. I WAS assuming that the pro shop knew how to do it right.
O ok, i know that some pro-shops don't let it cure enough. Or the weather could affect it, like if it is very humid it might take it longer to cure when the pro-shop guy or gal doesn't know that it'll take longer.
Rowdy
07-30-2007, 07:58 PM
Oh I LOVE it when they set the ball on the floor,right next to the window in the dead of winter. You might as well wait for july for that sucker to ever set up!
Thepainscoming
07-30-2007, 08:01 PM
Oh I LOVE it when they set the ball on the floor,right next to the window in the dead of winter. You might as well wait for july for that sucker to ever set up!
Yeah, i would hate to get a ball plugged in december and the winter because your balls crack easier because of the cold and the plugging would just make it worse.
Rowdy
07-30-2007, 08:05 PM
Yeah. That's why I tell everyone NOT to buy me a ball for Christmas or my B-day in Jan. By the time the ball gets here in the winter its too cold to drill. And I HATE having to look at the ball every DAMN DAY until it thaws out.:eek:
Thepainscoming
07-30-2007, 08:24 PM
Yeah. That's why I tell everyone NOT to buy me a ball for Christmas or my B-day in Jan. By the time the ball gets here in the winter its too cold to drill. And I HATE having to look at the ball every DAMN DAY until it thaws out.:eek: Yeah same here, but i buy my balls from a pro-shop, not off of the web.
JoshWithrow
07-30-2007, 08:31 PM
Guys seriously... all it takes is a day or two to get that balls core temp to the right place. I sense some DRAMA QUEENS...
Thepainscoming
07-30-2007, 08:33 PM
Guys seriously... all it takes is a day or two to get that balls core temp to the right place. I sense some DRAMA QUEENS... I was only talking about if the plugging doesn't cure fast enough because of the humidity.
JoshWithrow
07-30-2007, 08:48 PM
My proshop is it's own climate controlled environment within another climate controlled environment. And he's ALWAYS got a dehumidifier running in there. Do you guys really have people working out of garages and sheds?
Rowdy
07-30-2007, 09:31 PM
This here is a no shitter,Josh. When it's winter in South Carolina it gets damn cold. Since the balls come from some warehouse to the lanes in a truck,the ball is well and truly frozen. Drillers that are worth the bucks and know what they are doing won't even touch a ball until it's been sitting in the shop up off the floor for about 5 days. Around here most shops are not built for cold weather. Concrete floors get really cold at 20 degrees at night. Matter of fact,the TiBoss I have came by truck from California and that sucker was cold enough to use as a really huge icecube! Took a week for the ball to stop sweating and get drilled.
Thepainscoming
07-30-2007, 09:41 PM
My proshop is it's own climate controlled environment within another climate controlled environment. And he's ALWAYS got a dehumidifier running in there. Do you guys really have people working out of garages and sheds? My driller runs his shop out of his garage.
Young300
07-30-2007, 10:06 PM
This here is a no shitter,Josh. When it's winter in South Carolina it gets damn cold. Since the balls come from some warehouse to the lanes in a truck,the ball is well and truly frozen. Drillers that are worth the bucks and know what they are doing won't even touch a ball until it's been sitting in the shop up off the floor for about 5 days. Around here most shops are not built for cold weather. Concrete floors get really cold at 20 degrees at night. Matter of fact,the TiBoss I have came by truck from California and that sucker was cold enough to use as a really huge icecube! Took a week for the ball to stop sweating and get drilled.
If I'm not mistaking, that's why some newer balls that come in have a white hint around some of the coloring. It's like it somewhat crystallizes inside the coverstock which of course will damage a bowling ball if it isn't taken care of properly.
BBspare
07-31-2007, 12:42 PM
When you drill a ball, the bit takes material out of the core to make room for the holes. Essentially, this changes the shape of the core because you don't have the balnce of weight on both sides of the core.
When you plug the ball, none of that core density is replaced. Ball plug is just a resin patch that is designed to be similar to a reactive cover. The plug will not make up for the density of the material that was initially drilled out.
Ususally, it takes a couple, three plug jobs before the reaction is changed enough to notice. I would advise that if youdo plug and redrill a ball, you try to drill back through the plug. This would be like drilling the ball for the first time.
JoshWithrow
07-31-2007, 01:19 PM
This here is a no shitter,Josh. When it's winter in South Carolina it gets damn cold. Since the balls come from some warehouse to the lanes in a truck,the ball is well and truly frozen. Drillers that are worth the bucks and know what they are doing won't even touch a ball until it's been sitting in the shop up off the floor for about 5 days. Around here most shops are not built for cold weather. Concrete floors get really cold at 20 degrees at night. Matter of fact,the TiBoss I have came by truck from California and that sucker was cold enough to use as a really huge icecube! Took a week for the ball to stop sweating and get drilled.
When I got my last set of balls last winter they sat around the house for 3 days before they stopped sweating, and then my proshop let them sit for another 2 days... in his non garage fully climate controlled indoor workspace.
Rowdy
08-01-2007, 02:21 AM
The man who drilled those balls has a policy of ALWAYS waiting a week before drilling a cold ball. And it's a really nice,indoor,yada,yada pro shop at the lanes. He doesn't want to have ANY unhappy customers in his shop. He's a retired Master Sgt. from the Air Force and that is one squared away shop. He goes above and beyond what most pro shops do and never charges for most of it. He's also a USBC coach and still gets a kick out of seeing any bowler improve. Tink is even gonna take some lessons from him. We of The HammerNation are going to give him his due,anytime you're near Summerville,SC,go to Dorchester Lanes and go see Fred Trickey in his shop. Your game will be glad it did!
JoshWithrow
08-01-2007, 09:30 AM
Before my best friend got sent to Japan (Marines) I was in NC all the time... SC may be a stretch ;)
Actually, then again, it may not be. I have a client that I'm finishing a website for somewhere between the Charleston/Columbia area so I may be down that way sometime. Maybe I'll have to make sure I have to to stop in and meet the Rowdy.
mongoliantreesloth
08-02-2007, 06:49 AM
When you drill a ball, the bit takes material out of the core to make room for the holes. Essentially, this changes the shape of the core because you don't have the balnce of weight on both sides of the core.
Not with Visionarys - the core is designed so as you don't drill into it. Essentially they place a lighter material on the core opposite where the holes go, thereby creating "virtual mass bias".
I don't fully understand all the principles involved but the pictures and diagrams make sense.
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