View Full Version : Received Total NV... now need opinions...
JoshWithrow
08-15-2007, 10:16 AM
Here's my thought... I just got my Total NV and I'm going to get it drilled #4 or #3. I'm undecided because I want an early, smooth reaction... not something flippy/snappy... but fluid. #4 says it's recommended for full rollers. I'm not a full roller, but I am a high tracker... my first track starts about an inch from my finger/thumb holes.
With all this in mind, I'm thinking of having my No Mercy, drilled #1, taken down to 1000 or 2000. I want alittle more mid lane read.
I'm thinking that because the NM is matte/dull and the TNV is polished that these may compliment each other. Am I an idiot? Help me make a decision that'll be great for my game.
Thepainscoming
08-15-2007, 11:20 AM
Wuteva u do do not get it drilled full roller, it will not hit or roll good.
JoshWithrow
08-15-2007, 11:59 AM
The drilling does not specify that it's only usable for full rollers, just that it's the recommended layout for a full roller. Actually it states that this drilling is acceptable for most styles. Correct me if I'm wrong...
http://ebonite.com/techcenter/drilling_instructions.php?title=Total%20NV/The%20One
If it's not drilled #4 it will be drilled #3.
TenPinSniper
08-15-2007, 01:55 PM
Drill it number #3... Full Roller drills will most likely not work for you, unless you are a full roller. Believe the ball would track over the finger, maybe the thumb. Full Rollers track between the fingers and thumb.
The drilling does not specify that it's only usable for full rollers, just that it's the recommended layout for a full roller. Actually it states that this drilling is acceptable for most styles. Correct me if I'm wrong...
http://ebonite.com/techcenter/drilling_instructions.php?title=Total%20NV/The%20One
If it's not drilled #4 it will be drilled #3.
Incorrect...
If you don't have a full roller track you should not use a full roller layout. The drill specs for hammer ball explicity state this. Cleary ebonite assumes that your driller would not layout a full roller ball for a non full roller.
I'm confused what you're trying to do with the TNV and NM combo. It appears that you're getting up both balls for heavy oil. What other equipment do you have?
I'm not familiar with the TNV core but if I wanted a smooth reaction from an asymmetrical ball I would consider one of Mo Pinels super symmetrical drillings or possibly a Rico.
BigDog
08-15-2007, 02:06 PM
I wonder if you put the CG near the middle, and the pin toward your ring finger would smooth things out a bit...
TenPinSniper
08-15-2007, 02:15 PM
I wonder if you put the CG near the middle, and the pin toward your ring finger would smooth things out a bit...
If you can get a Asymetrical Ball with the CG out of line to the left of the line between the PIN and MB. Probably a inch or more (1 1/2" or more would be sweet).. Hence a preferred Right Hander's Ball, when we are talking about MB, Asymetrical ball. The No Mercy is the opposite.
If you want to locate the MB on the No Mercy we can talk about that too.
Josh, post a picture before you drill and we can all drool, I mean discuss layouts.
BigDog
08-15-2007, 02:49 PM
If you can get a Asymetrical Ball with the CG out of line to the left of the line between the PIN and MB. Probably a inch or more (1 1/2" or more would be sweet).. Hence a preferred Right Hander's Ball, when we are talking about MB, Asymetrical ball. The No Mercy is the opposite.
If you want to locate the MB on the No Mercy we can talk about that too.
Josh, post a picture before you drill and we can all drool, I mean discuss layouts.
That's right the TNV is asymetrical with a MB.:eek:
You might be able to have it drilled with (Hammer/Black Widow) #2 layout , which is their all-purpose layout. I would guess that it would check up sooner, and make a strong move at the back end. My Black Widow is drilled that way. I recently had it taken down to 2000 and polished, and it really moves and hits now.
But talk to your driller before you do anything, and explain to him/her what you want to do. You should be fine.
JoshWithrow
08-15-2007, 04:06 PM
Okay after reading some of the replies I went to the pro shop and spoke with my pro shop guy.
I don't want anything "snappy"... no skid flip stuff. I want a nice, smooth, arcing ball for medium/heavy conditions.
He said that I was retarded (and/or can't read for shat) and that #4 IS a full roller layout... so that was automatically out. He said that #3's pin position with the MB moved to underneath the thumb would work best for the way I throw the ball and the results I'm trying to achieve so that's what we went with.
I've been considering having my NM resurfaced anyway, so I'm having my NM (drilled #1) resurfaced (been 9 months since I got the ball and have never done anything to it) to 2000 for just a bit more midlane in HEAVY oil. I told him that I wanted the balls to be "similar", but compliment each other. He said this would do it for me.
Then, I've resurfaced my Syntactic Sledge (800 dull - Factory) because it's been close to 10 years and I've never had ANYTHING done to it. That should be good for the ball because it's also particle. The ball has a very nice smooth arc on medium.
And finally I'm taking my vibe down to 4000 dull to start - if that doesn't do it then I'll figure something out. The damn thing still leaves 10 pins. Period. I'm just not coming thru enough on the headpin. It skids REALLY far and snaps hard, so I'm taking some of the snap out of it but giving it an earlier start. That should cover light/medium conditions.
All I want to do is be ready for the winter leagues, to have balls that compliment each other and don't overlap but that give me good flexibility. My pro shop guy thinks this will be a good setup. I'm hoping that I was right and that he wasn't just agreeing with me (though I doubt that'd be the case because he's told me when I say stupid things).
As always, I appreciate the input guys. I'm no pro at this... but am trying to learn.
EDIT:
Also, I just wanted to clarify something. Ebonite has stated that it's Spike Mass Bias core can also be laid out Symmetrically so long as you change your point of reference. So this ball has ALOT of flexibility. If anybody can recommend anything that has more of a strong early flowing arc that what was recommended by my proshop guy in the next day or two please do so I can ask him his opinion on it.
blistershurt
08-15-2007, 04:13 PM
okay! Me help. I got a drill like this on the BW.
You wanna get the mass bias placed to around your thumb. The CG and pin position wont matter so much then, my BW's pin and CG are lined up in a 4x4 drill if the mass bias didnt make so much of a difference.
JoshWithrow
08-15-2007, 04:22 PM
Nice. That's what I went with, but he's going to keep the pin "low" and outside the ring finger.
keep us informed Josh, with your equipment you should be all set once you find the right surfaces.
In regards to your BV, I had similar problems with my Toxic OOB it was too long for what I wanted it to do. After many experiments, I hit it with a gray pad and a mirror polish shine. Now it's a beast. Once you find the right surfaces it's a great thing...
TenPinSniper
08-15-2007, 10:30 PM
Talked with a Storm Ball Rep/PBA Regional Bowler this summer...
Asked what they used from the factory for surfaces, he said they don't limit themselves to just abralon.... they use several thing from including abralon, along with scotch brite, sand paper, etc.
JoshWithrow
08-15-2007, 10:31 PM
Thats what I like to hear, Slap! Thanks for the encouragement. I don't plan on making any other ball purchases until my next investment... a spinner. I'm thinking that if I don't have one by Christmas it'll be my present (my girls can give it to me ;) )
My pro shop guy actually recommended that I try 1000 polished on the Vibe... I told him to let me try to make one call ;) and if it doesn't go over well then I'll take his advice lol. He just shook his head.
Come to think of it that's like telling your caddy he doesn't know the greenes... oops!
TenPinSniper
08-15-2007, 10:46 PM
If he knows your game, it would probably be good to take his advice.
blistershurt
08-15-2007, 11:34 PM
Yeah pin down helps control too, sounds like you got quite the arsenal Josh...man...i need to get my thumb hole stuff straightened out, tonight i couldnt get my thumb out of the ball...need the thumb pitched away from the palm, plus an oval thumb hole would help...my thumb looks like an oval, not close to the shape of the hole...like sticking a square into a rectangle.
Sorry bout the thread gank lol
Rowdy
08-15-2007, 11:37 PM
When did Hammer start making Total NV'S? Or don't they have a site of their own?
JoshWithrow
08-15-2007, 11:46 PM
So now lets chat about some Storm balls just to irritate the forum police...
JoshWithrow
08-15-2007, 11:53 PM
If he knows your game, it would probably be good to take his advice.
I know... but once in awhile I must rebel ;)
Sin City Hammer
08-16-2007, 12:58 AM
Too bad slap is up there in boston, I bet I could keep him busy changing mine around alot.
Slap is the guru of the sand and polish technique.
Too bad slap is up there in boston, I bet I could keep him busy changing mine around alot.
Slap is the guru of the sand and polish technique.
Perhaps I'm the resident expert here, but not in the real world. ;)
I learn A LOT from my pro shop owner. He's a walking library of bowling information. I just try to share what I learn from him and my own experiments with you guys.
Talked with a Storm Ball Rep/PBA Regional Bowler this summer...
Asked what they used from the factory for surfaces, he said they don't limit themselves to just abralon.... they use several thing from including abralon, along with scotch brite, sand paper, etc.
I've got a crate full of goodies. :D
Abralon 4000, 2000, 1000, 500, 360, 180 although I've found litte use for 500-180s
Scotch brite Maroon, Green, Gray, Blue, White again little use for Blue and White
Sandpaper 220
Sin City Hammer
08-16-2007, 11:28 AM
Perhaps I'm the resident expert here, but not in the real world. ;)
I learn A LOT from my pro shop owner. He's a walking library of bowling information. I just try to share what I learn from him and my own experiments with you guys.
That makes you the guru of the sand and polish technique of the Hammer site. Which is good enough for me.
JoshWithrow
08-27-2007, 02:13 PM
UPDATE:
I got my Total NV today. This thing is AWESOME for middle of the road conditions! I'm thinking that it'll be versatile, too, meaning that in heavier oil I'll just have to play a more down and in line. I played it on light/broken down conditions today and it was controllable, just that I was bellying it more than I like. I'm making an educated guess that it'll be most most used ball for general THS conditions, though. It has a very nice, easy, predictable, long arc once it begins to break which isn't late despite this ball being polished.
http://www.myserverguy.com/bowling/totalNV.jpg
The No Mercy is now @ 2000 dull, and I just couldn't keep it on the lane today. But I wanted this ball to be the heavy oil ball and let the TotalNV become the medium oil ball. It grabbed alot earlier than OOB 4000 which should be great for the heavier oil since it had started to lose it's OOMPH.
The Syntactive Sledge had it's first resurface EVER... it's back @ 800 dull (factory), but without the shine ;) This ball hooks ALOT more than I ever remember it hooking. It breaks ALOT earlier than the No Mercy, but it's not as strong of a move, although in the end it moves just as much (at least on the crummy light conditions that were down today). I'm thinking it'll be a good in between for the Total NV... so Total NV > Syntactive > No Mercy.
That's all. Just giving an update.
TenPinSniper
08-27-2007, 02:47 PM
I've got a crate full of goodies. :D
Abralon 4000, 2000, 1000, 500, 360, 180 although I've found litte use for 500-180s
Scotch brite Maroon, Green, Gray, Blue, White again little use for Blue and White
Sandpaper 220
Know what you mean... have a old dresser draw to store stuff in... sanding stuff.
Will probably get 1-2 180 and 360's, just because, really dont need them. Keep 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000 Abralon on hand. Have burgandy, big stack of green, grey and white... no blue (whats the grit of that?).
Think burgandy and green scotchbrite covers the 180 and 360 abralon pads... close enough. (Really it covers the 220 sandpaper too.) The only reason for me to take a ball that low would be for resurfacing.
Did you get the "Blue" from supergrit?
Back on topic, sorry Josh... the ball looks good.
Know what you mean... have a old dresser draw to store stuff in... sanding stuff.
Will probably get 1-2 180 and 360's, just because, really dont need them. Keep 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000 Abralon on hand. Have burgandy, big stack of green, grey and white... no blue (whats the grit of that?).
Think burgandy and green scotchbrite covers the 180 and 360 abralon pads... close enough. (Really it covers the 220 sandpaper too.) The only reason for me to take a ball that low would be for resurfacing.
Did you get the "Blue" from supergrit?
Back on topic, sorry Josh... the ball looks good.
It's funny, I actually used my first 180 and 360 pads this weekend. I did a full resurface of my BW, NM, BV and the two Awesome Revs. The 180 pads remove surface scratches pretty well.
I have the 220 sandpaper for use with Brunswicks rough buff. They recommend to sand to 220 then apply the compound.
Yep, I have serious overlap in sanding materials. The burgandy pad is around 320 and the green pad is around 600 so that does cover the 360, and 500 abralon pads. I think abralon is easier to work but scotch brites are much cheaper so once I begin to run out of pads I'll order one or the other.
I found the blue pad at home depot. It's supposedly around 1000 grit (just under the white pad) but I haven't found much use for the blue. In the Fury Pearl video they mention a gold scotch brite pad. I emailed them and supposedly that pad is equal to a 2000 abralon. I plan to buy a box of those the next time I place an order.
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