PDA

View Full Version : Cleaning and Maintaining your Equipment


BubbaRay
09-10-2007, 04:44 AM
Everyone needs a ball-maintenance program in order to keep your equipment
performing at an optimal level. I'll offer a few tips on how to clean your ball and maintain its finish.

The cover is the most dominant variable in ball reaction. Because it's in contact with the lane, the ball surface will pick up oil. With some of the newer equipment, there's a lot of oil that gets absorbed into the ball, which soaks both the surface and the inside of the ball. As the ball rolls down the lane, only a very small portion is in contact with the lane at any given moment, but you will notice oil rings on your ball in some instances. This oil ring indicates your ball's track (where it has rolled on the lane). Sometimes, for different reasons, you may not see an oil ring, but your ball still will have rolled on its track as it went down the lane. Every ball develops an oil track; obviously, the faster your ball tracks up, the more often you'll need to clean it.
There are two main considerations when you are organizing your cleaning schedule. The first one is where you bowl. Some bowling centers are very srictly maintained. For instance, the lanes may be stripped and oiled twice a day. Other centers may not clean as often. The cleaner the lane surface, the longer it takes your ball to track up.

Where you live also makes a difference. For instance, if you bowl in an area near the beach, where a lot of sand gets dragged into the center, you will have more particles on the lane surface. The same goes for a bowling center near an airport or railroad tracks: Constant vibrations will force particles out of the ceiling and onto the lane surface. How much oil the center you bowl in applies and what type of oil is used in the dressing of the lanes will affect your maintenance program as well.

The second consideration is how often you bowl. If you bowl once a week in a three-game league, your maintenance will be less than that of someone who bowls five times a week in league, tournament, and practice play.


You can do a lot on your own to keep your equipment in shape, and every once in a while you can visit your pro shop for some extra-special treatment. If you like your ball's hook, you need to be diligent with your ball maintenance. For your aggressive hook ball, use three-game blocks as your cleaning schedule, if possible. To keep the same reaction on every roll during games, you need to wipe your ball clean with a towel. The next level of ball-cleaning, polishing, dulling, and maintenance resides in your pro shop. The pro shop has materials that are stronger and are applied using a high-speed spinner. This specialized machine is made just for working on bowling balls. Your pro shop operator can manipulate this machine and a range of products to do just what needs to be done to your bowling ball. If your ball needs special attention, this is where to go. You'll quickly see that the results are more dramatic than what you can accomplish by hand. In fact, pro shop operators can make an old ball look new, a shiny ball look dull, or a dull ball look shiny. The magic they perform is amazing.

These changes can make a significant difference in the reaction of your bowling ball. Some of the procedures take quite a bit of time, effort, and product, but the cost is well worth the result. If, for instance, you have a particle ball that is not reacting as well as it used to, you can go to the pro shop and have the surface refreshed. The particle material is throughout the ball--not just on a thin layer of the coverstock--so you won't lose its distinct reaction by having the pro shop work on it. In fact, for some particle technology, there is a specialized system the pro shop utilizes on them.

Using heat to clean

There is a product in the marketplace called The Rejuvenator, a machine that heats a bowling ball to draw the oil out. It heats a ball at a very low temperature--on the order of a child's easy bake oven. Drawing out oil will give you a ball that hooks more.

When I hear of people putting bowling balls in their ovens at home, however, it makes me nervous. Bowling balls, especially reactive and particle technology balls, are sensitive to heat. If you put one of these balls in the oven at 150 degrees for an hour, don't be surprised if it splits into two pieces as it cools. Thermal stress is not good for bowling balls. If the ball gets too hot it can crack, and even if it does not appear to have a crack on the outside surface the heat can cause many small, unseen stress fractures in the material that weaken it.

Another concern stems from the materials bowling balls are made of. There are all sorts of chemicals in the balls, and many of them are not fit for human consumption. Putting a ball into an oven that is used to prepare food is a bad idea. In fact, you shouldn't even leave your balls in a hot trunk for very long--high temperatures in the trunk can damage a ball.

A safer and effective way to get the oil out of your ball is to get a five-gallon bucket of hot water and a detergent and scrub your ball with a soft nylon brush, rag, or sponge. This will draw the oil out of the ball and restore some of its hooking power. When you're cleaning your ball this way, be sure to cover all of the holes with some type of tape (electric tape usually works well) to keep water from seeping in.
Why spend hundreds of dollars on a topnotch ball if you're not going to maintain it for optimal performance? That's like buying an expensive sports car and waiting 10,000 miles to change the oil, or leaving the body exposed to the elements and letting it rust away. By knowing what to do, where to go, and how often to maintain your ball properly, you can raise the efficiency of your game. Just as important is avoiding anything that may harm your precious ball--bowling balls are most definitely not fit for Shake 'n. Bake.

Ball reaction is about surface to surface contact. If you don't create friction you will get skid, if you create lots of friction you get hook. You must have the right friction level for each lane condition to be effective on that lane condition. Dull balls tend to hook earlier and shined balls tend to hook later. Adjust your surface before you change your style. Keep it simple and you will score higher. Too many changes are too confusing and cause difficulty staying consistent. Experiment with changing your ball surface to change the reaction. Find out what your balls can do.

Bowl with well maintained balls and you will have more success. Higher scores with less work and your average will go up. Your confidence will build and who knows where your average will end up at. Take advantage of the tools available to you and you will be glad you did.


I hope this serves as a good ball-maintenance primer. Remember, when in doubt, stop in your pro shop and ask for advice; you won't be steered wrong.

PASSIONATEBOWLER
09-10-2007, 07:37 AM
Everyone needs a ball-maintenance program in order to keep your equipment
performing at an optimal level. This issue, I'll offer a few tips on how to clean your ball and maintain its finish.

The cover is the most dominant variable in ball reaction. Because it's in contact with the lane, the ball surface will pick up oil. With some of the newer equipment, there's a lot of oil that gets absorbed into the ball, which soaks both the surface and the inside of the ball. As the ball rolls down the lane, only a very small portion is in contact with the lane at any given moment, but you will notice oil rings on your ball in some instances. This oil ring indicates your ball's track (where it has rolled on the lane). Sometimes, for different reasons, you may not see an oil ring, but your ball still will have rolled on its track as it went down the lane. Every ball develops an oil track; obviously, the faster your ball tracks up, the more often you'll need to clean it.
There are two main considerations when you are organizing your cleaning schedule. The first one is where you bowl. Some bowling centers are very srictly maintained. For instance, the lanes may be stripped and oiled twice a day. Other centers may not clean as often. The cleaner the lane surface, the longer it takes your ball to track up.

Where you live also makes a difference. For instance, if you bowl in an area near the beach, where a lot of sand gets dragged into the center, you will have more particles on the lane surface. The same goes for a bowling center near an airport or railroad tracks: Constant vibrations will force particles out of the ceiling and onto the lane surface. How much oil the center you bowl in applies and what type of oil is used in the dressing of the lanes will affect your maintenance program as well.

The second consideration is how often you bowl. If you bowl once a week in a three-game league, your maintenance will be less than that of someone who bowls five times a week in league, tournament, and practice play.


You can do a lot on your own to keep your equipment in shape, and every once in a while you can visit your pro shop for some extra-special treatment. If you like your ball's hook, you need to be diligent with your ball maintenance. For your aggressive hook ball, use three-game blocks as your cleaning schedule, if possible. To keep the same reaction on every roll during games, you need to wipe your ball clean with a towel. The next level of ball-cleaning, polishing, dulling, and maintenance resides in your pro shop. The pro shop has materials that are stronger and are applied using a high-speed spinner. This specialized machine is made just for working on bowling balls. Your pro shop operator can manipulate this machine and a range of products to do just what needs to be done to your bowling ball. If your ball needs special attention, this is where to go. You'll quickly see that the results are more dramatic than what you can accomplish by hand. In fact, pro shop operators can make an old ball look new, a shiny ball look dull, or a dull ball look shiny. The magic they perform is amazing.

These changes can make a significant difference in the reaction of your bowling ball. Some of the procedures take quite a bit of time, effort, and product, but the cost is well worth the result. If, for instance, you have a particle ball that is not reacting as well as it used to, you can go to the pro shop and have the surface refreshed. The particle material is throughout the ball--not just on a thin layer of the coverstock--so you won't lose its distinct reaction by having the pro shop work on it. In fact, for some particle technology, there is a specialized system the pro shop utilizes on them.

Using heat to clean

There is a product in the marketplace called The Rejuvenator, a machine that heats a bowling ball to draw the oil out. It heats a ball at a very low temperature--on the order of a child's easy bake oven. Drawing out oil will give you a ball that hooks more.

When I hear of people putting bowling balls in their ovens at home, however, it makes me nervous. Bowling balls, especially reactive and particle technology balls, are sensitive to heat. If you put one of these balls in the oven at 150 degrees for an hour, don't be surprised if it splits into two pieces as it cools. Thermal stress is not good for bowling balls. If the ball gets too hot it can crack, and even if it does not appear to have a crack on the outside surface the heat can cause many small, unseen stress fractures in the material that weaken it.

Another concern stems from the materials bowling balls are made of. There are all sorts of chemicals in the balls, and many of them are not fit for human consumption. Putting a ball into an oven that is used to prepare food is a bad idea. In fact, you shouldn't even leave your balls in a hot trunk for very long--high temperatures in the trunk can damage a ball.

A safer and effective way to get the oil out of your ball is to get a five-gallon bucket of hot water and a detergent and scrub your ball with a soft nylon brush, rag, or sponge. This will draw the oil out of the ball and restore some of its hooking power. When you're cleaning your ball this way, be sure to cover all of the holes with some type of tape (electric tape usually works well) to keep water from seeping in.
Why spend hundreds of dollars on a topnotch ball if you're not going to maintain it for optimal performance? That's like buying an expensive sports car and waiting 10,000 miles to change the oil, or leaving the body exposed to the elements and letting it rust away. By knowing what to do, where to go, and how often to maintain your ball properly, you can raise the efficiency of your game. Just as important is avoiding anything that may harm your precious ball--bowling balls are most definitely not fit for Shake 'n. Bake.

Ball reaction is about surface to surface contact. If you don't create friction you will get skid, if you create lots of friction you get hook. You must have the right friction level for each lane condition to be effective on that lane condition. Dull balls tend to hook earlier and shined balls tend to hook later. Adjust your surface before you change your style. Keep it simple and you will score higher. Too many changes are too confusing and cause difficulty staying consistent. Experiment with changing your ball surface to change the reaction. Find out what your balls can do.

Bowl with well maintained balls and you will have more success. Higher scores with less work and your average will go up. Your confidence will build and who knows where your average will end up at. Take advantage of the tools available to you and you will be glad you did.


I hope this serves as a good ball-maintenance primer. Remember, when in doubt, stop in your pro shop and ask for advice; you won't be steered wrong.

Very well written.

Thanks for the tips!

rugdoc
09-10-2007, 08:55 PM
Hey Bubba,

Why cover the holes. is it that important?? Last year, I never did it with my BWS. The only reason I'm not throwing it anymore, is I dropped to #15 this year. But one thing I did do, was give it a bath where it could sit (holes down) for atleast 24hrs.

And, what do you use for regular cleanings?? My pro swears by Clean and Dull, and for that matter, I do too.

BubbaRay
09-10-2007, 09:14 PM
It's not really needed to cover the holes but I like doing it to be on the safe side. Only reason is some of the dawn don't get in the holes and make them alittle to slick. As for regular cleannings after a block I use plain ole rubbing Alcohol. When I give them a bath I use Dawn Dish detergent.

hammeredinkansas
09-10-2007, 09:16 PM
I have the same question regarding covering the holes. I haven't done it in three baths, but now I wonder if I should. Also, does the hook again (or kitty litter) treatment yeild the same results as a hot water/dish soap bath?

rugdoc
09-10-2007, 09:22 PM
It's not really needed to cover the holes but I like doing it to be on the safe side. Only reason is some of the dawn don't get in the holes and make them alittle to slick. As for regular cleannings after a block I use plain ole rubbing Alcohol. When I give them a bath I use Dawn Dish detergent.

hmmm... I was told that rubbing alcohol was bad. As for baths, either Dawn or Ajax. What ever was on sale at the super market. Kinda figured as long as it's supposed to cut grease, why not. Both seemed to work the same. ( ajax dish liquid, not the scrubbing powder:D )

Rowdy
09-10-2007, 10:35 PM
Hammered-There was no difference in both Widows after a hot water bath or the kitty litter.
Bubba-I called Hammer after I first got a BWS to find out what to use and what NOT to use to clean it. The guy in Tech Support said that long term alcohol use on Widows should be avoided. I have come across guys who do use alcohol and they have commented on how my Widows must be new because of the amount of hook in them. Turns out that their Widows are newer than mine,the only difference is the use of alcohol to clean the balls. Makes me wonder.
I've had both balls in kitty litter,hot water,hot water and Dawn and I'm gonna take advantage of a deal at the pro shop and put them in the Hook Again,have them resurfaced on a Haus machine back to OOB finish and new finger and thumb inserts for less than $50 per ball. I think that's a hell of a good deal.
I'm going to use the pro shop deal every 3 or 4 months and give them a bath every two weeks. I will also keep cleaning them with the Powerhouse Energizer after every bowling session,practice or league nite. Gotta take care of my babies!:)

BubbaRay
09-11-2007, 04:18 AM
I have been using alcohol on my stuff for years. So far it hasn't heurt my Widow or NM in two years, It does make you wonder. As for the hole blocking, Like I said I do it myself so the dawn does not get in the holes and some left over residue from rhe dawn remains to get the holes alittle slicker than I like.

can-ham
09-11-2007, 04:35 PM
To keep the same reaction on every roll during games, you need to wipe your ball clean with a towel. The next level of ball-cleaning, polishing, dulling, and maintenance resides in your pro shop.

Great post, the only thing that my have been skipped is cleaning your ball with a cleaner after each session.

Erocku
09-11-2007, 06:06 PM
Bowling Ball Bath Method

Ball Prep
The first thing you will want to do is prep the ball for the bath. This is optional but some people report better results with prepping the ball first. Take 500 grit abralon, sandpaper, or a green scothbrite pad and dull the surface of the ball. Some say that this opens the pores of the ball and will help extract more oil from the ball.
Some people prefer to tape over the finger, thumb, and x-holes with electrical tape. Personally, I have tried taping the holes, but I have two issues with doing so. One, water got through the taped hole anyways. Two, the tape leaves a residue that you have to clean off afterwards. I have done numerous ball baths without taping the holes and have had no issues. This is also a good time to replace worn inserts. If your inserts are worn out, you can remove them using a pocket knife or you can get a grip puller. Scrape off any dried glue or pieces of the insert from the finger holes.

Extracting Oil
Now that the ball is prepped, it's time to get the oil out of the ball. Get a five gallon bucket. Put the ball at the bottom of the bucket. Fill the bucket with hot water from the water faucet until it covers the ball. You can also add in some liquid detergent like "Dawn" or "Palmolive" while the bucket is filling up. I have heard of people using "Simple Green" or even adding in a little bit of ball cleaner to the bucket.
Let the ball sit in the bucket for about 15-20 minutes. By that time you should see oil floating at the top of the bucket. Dump out the water and pull out the ball. You will notice that the ball will be very oily. Wipe off the oil from the surface of the ball. You can repeat the process until you no longer have oil coming out of the ball.

Drying
Wipe off any water on the outside of the ball and try your best to get the water out of the finger, thumb, and/or x-holes. Let the ball sit overnight with the finger and thumb holes facing down.

Finishing
Once your ball is dry you can reglue in new inserts if you removed them before the bath (I just use a bit of loctite super glue about halfway down the hole on the left and right sides of the inserts). You can now change the surface of the ball and/or polish it. Your ball should re-gain some of the hook it once had.