spinner and ball reaction

[J_W73]

How many games do you give a ball after putting a certain grit on it to rate the reaction?.. or do you base all your info on the reaction right after sanding?
If its right after sanding I imagine you would have to put a fresh sanding on the ball before every use to keep the same reaction..

[Rowdy]

Depends on which ball it is. A urethane ball you could rate from the first roll. Any of the new stuff needs about 10 games on it. The ball does have to soak up some oil in the track area so you'll know how it's gonna perform over the long haul.

I think that's one of the reasons most guys are so happy with any BW ball when they first roll it,but cool off on it after a couple of weeks of league play. That and they don't clean it properly right after they're done with the ball for the night. I see so many guys cram the ball in a bag and head for the car while I'm still standing there cleaning my gear. I still don't understand how someone can spend 200+ dollars on a ball and not take care of it the right way.

[slap]

I don't really have a set period of games. For me some balls have been harder to tweak than others. Some polishes are more difficult to work with as well. If had to guess, two practice sessions would usually give me a basic idea of what the ball is doing. At that point I should be able to determine if the surface change was at least a step in the right direction.

[TenPinSniper]

It just depends... some people like fresh surfaces and others like the ball to have some track.

Just because you like the fresh surface does not mean that your gonna sand each side for very long. I've done a quick 3 swipe sand on all six side.

I've found stuff that I've liked with more used surfaces and other I did with fresh surfaces. You'll just have to experiment.


What polishes are harder to use? Are they worth the effort? How is that 3M Trizact 3000 Polish?

[slap]

The 3M Trizact 3000 Polish is awesome. In smaller amounts it creates a reaction that is some where between 4000 matte and "polished." In larger amounts I got a lot of length without taking too much way from the backend reaction. So far I've only used it over a gold pad or 4000 abralon finishs. I some point I will try it over a lower starting grit. Very interesting stuff...

As for difficult polishes...
I would Beans SS is one of them. It literally take 2 or 3 drops to create a highly polished ball which is a positive. However it makes it tough to create a less glossy finish. To do this I've used sprayed my polishing pad with water and used just a drop of the sauce and almost no pressure on the ball. That works ok but it's difficult to repeat so tend to use another polish.

Lanemasters surface cutting compound. It's supposed to create a matte finish but it's been hit or miss for me. (Although I haven't used it too much) Part of the problem is they don't recommend a starting grit before applying the product. I'm sure I'll figure it out once I use it more but Ebonite matte finish does basically the same thing and it's "easier" to use.

Valentinos snake oil. I just haven't matched up with this product yet. I've tried it over their Ressurection and it just kills the backend for me. I need to experiment more with this one too.

[J_W73]

I don't really have a set period of games. For me some balls have been harder to tweak than others. Some polishes are more difficult to work with as well. If had to guess, two practice sessions would usually give me a basic idea of what the ball is doing. At that point I should be able to determine if the surface change was at least a step in the right direction.

What does a polish consist of? Is it a wax or other slicker substance? I know some polishes contain a grit factor as well.

[slap]

What does a polish consist of? Is it a wax or other slicker substance? I know some polishes contain a grit factor as well.

I don't really know the answer to that question.

[bluerrpilot]

If you know the way a ball reacts on a certain condition (fresh house shot) and you change the surface and throw the ball on the same condition, It doesn't take but a few shots to see a difference.

I also don't bother doing 4 or 6 sides if I'm making a small surface adjustment. I will usually put the pin in the center of the spinner and hit it for less than a minute of whatever grit. Then flip it over 180deg and hit it again. That will cover the entire surface of the ball. Only if I'm making significant changes or a complete resurface will I hit 4 to 6 sides.

[J_W73]

If you know the way a ball reacts on a certain condition (fresh house shot) and you change the surface and throw the ball on the same condition, It doesn't take but a few shots to see a difference.

I also don't bother doing 4 or 6 sides if I'm making a small surface adjustment. I will usually put the pin in the center of the spinner and hit it for less than a minute of whatever grit. Then flip it over 180deg and hit it again. That will cover the entire surface of the ball. Only if I'm making significant changes or a complete resurface will I hit 4 to 6 sides.

I understand that you will see the difference.. but if you change the surface won't it react a certain way for the first few games and then when the track gets oil into it and worn a bit it will react another way for a longer period of time.. for example.. when I throw a new ball .. the ball will be pretty much useless for a game or two.. hook too early.. burn up.. too jumpy..but when I get some oil in the ball it actually works better for me.

[bluerrpilot]

.. but if you change the surface won't it react a certain way for the first few games and then when the track gets oil into it and worn a bit it will react another way for a longer period of time...

If you bowled on league night, you should be able to go at least a month or more (thats only 12 games) before any noticable difference in reaction. If a track gets burned into a ball so fast that reaction changes after a very short period of time. I would have other problems to worry about. Oil soaking into a cover is completly different. And if the ball is polished, oil will soak in at a fraction of the rate if it wasnt polished.

Personally, I rarely leave a ball with the OOB surface. If a BWP comes at 4000 polished, i will cut the cover with a 4000 pad and then re-apply polish. That way its a repeatable surface.

Maybe the inconsistancy in new ball reaction is just you getting used to the ball.

[J_W73]

Maybe the inconsistancy in new ball reaction is just you getting used to the ball.

That could possibly be it.

[Rowdy]

What does a polish consist of? Is it a wax or other slicker substance? I know some polishes contain a grit factor as well.

I could tell you to ask the guys at PowerHouse,but they won't tell you. Trade secret. Sshhhhh.

[Rowdy]

I understand that you will see the difference.. but if you change the surface won't it react a certain way for the first few games and then when the track gets oil into it and worn a bit it will react another way for a longer period of time.. for example.. when I throw a new ball .. the ball will be pretty much useless for a game or two.. hook too early.. burn up.. too jumpy..but when I get some oil in the ball it actually works better for me.

Same as a new ball does. All you did was expose a "New" surface on the spinner for the ball to track on. It has to be broken in just like a new ball does.

[TenPinSniper]

Personally I like fresh surfaces OOB or whatever has been working on the ball. Sometimes it just re-applying a coat of polish or hitting with a abralon or scuff pad. Once the ball gets some track on it has changes the grit of the surface... it been lowered.