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Old 02-26-2007, 09:43 PM
kennethortiz kennethortiz is offline
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Default Synthetic Lanes Vs. Wood Lanes

first here's my background. I'm used to bowling on Wood Lanes. I'm a right-handed, stroker-style bowler. I am a mid-speed but high rev bowler. my main ball is the hammer 3dOffset high rev ball. I try to fight the urge to adjust a lot unless really needed. I start off releasing the ball over board 23 or 24 (counting from the right). I usually get great length and huge hook. my ball usually makes a very strong change of direction towards the pocket right at board 7. On wood lanes in heavy oil I am very impressive (not too be cocky) but when the lanes dry up I tend to struggle with being consistent. I've only been bowling seriously since Sept. so I'm still learning a lot.

anyways, every time I bowl on synthetic lanes I suck. I cant figure it out. last week me and my dad bowled five games. here's my scores: 113, 171, 125, 208, 145... talk about inconsistent????

okay, here's my observations about synthetic lanes:

1) They are NOT as "sensitive" as wood lanes: I dunno if that is proper terminology to use but wood lanes seem to be more sensitive to any little thing in my release, speed, angle while the synthetic lanes dont seem as sensitive. this can be both good and bad. I find myself needing to OVERCOMPENSATE in terms of putting MORE revs on my ball than usual.

2) the ball doesn't grab the synthetic lane as "harshly" as it does on wood lanes. when my ball grabs the wood lanes I know it and it changes directions quickly opposed to synthetic lanes where my ball seems to slowly curve towards the pocket. being that my ball goes across the lane about 15-17 boards and goes extra long I find my ball doesn't have enough time or enough lane to come all the way back to the pocket and I hit the 3 pin but often miss the head pin.

3) I have a tough time reading the oil pattern on synthetic lanes. on wood lanes it seems so easy to see where the dry spots and heavy spot are because the ball reacts more to it but on the synthetic lanes therefore it takes me longer time to adjust to the oil on synthetic lanes than wood lanes. on wood lanes with 2 frames I can figure out how I need to adjust but on synthetic I'm lucky if I get it in 3-4 frames if at all.

what do you guys think about my observations?
how do i fix my problems?
what must I do to be successful on synthetic lanes vs. wood lanes?
what are the differences that i must know about?
should I consider getting a ball for synthetic lanes?
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Hammer 3D-Offset Hi-Rev

Speed: Mid
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Style: Stroker

Ave: 173
HG: 254
HS: 634

Last edited by kennethortiz; 02-26-2007 at 09:46 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-26-2007, 10:59 PM
kennethortiz kennethortiz is offline
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i've had several views but no responses and I really need help and input on the issue of synthetic vs. wood lanes.

can anyone give any input at all?
what are the major differences that affect performance?
should I have a different ball or different release?
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Columbia 300 EPX-T1
Hammer 3D-Offset Hi-Rev

Speed: Mid
Revs: Mid
Style: Stroker

Ave: 173
HG: 254
HS: 634
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  #3  
Old 02-27-2007, 07:50 AM
Tunat Tunat is offline
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Default sythnetic vs wood

I don't bowl on Synthetics much mainly tournments. Here are my observations and things I do to score... First of all, I'm not a cranker like you, I'm high end stroker/low-end tweener style. I typically play 15 board out to 5 or straight up the 10 board, I can do both with ease. Thus with a more direct style it is easier to adjust my feet right if I miss the head pin to the right, or left if hitting too high. Synth lanes don't soak the oil up like wood, but oil seems to travel farther faster on syth then on wood. In most cases, I find myself being very direct on synth type lanes where in wood I can open up some. I'm not going to get into too many details here, I'm sure others will fill in the blanks. The biggest thing about bowling on wood vs synthetic, is most people will not adjust to the lanes, but perfer the lanes to adjust to them. For you to be able to score on both surfaces, learn to shoot different lines and angles. Being your a cranker, learn how to throw the ball more direct...move your feet to different spots. No one can really tell you how to bowl on each surface or lane, its up to the individual, to adjust his or her game to suit the issue...my suggestion to when you have issue don't be afraid to try different things...move those feet.
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Old 02-27-2007, 08:13 AM
Lenny360 Lenny360 is offline
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It sounds to me that the synthetic lanes you're bowling on have a little more oil than the wood ones you're used to.

This is probably why you think you need more revs and your ball is not always making it back to the pocket. Trying to rev it more might also be another reason for your inconsistency.

There are a lot of basic things you can do.
If you're missing to the right, you can move to the right to play a more direct line instead of swining it across the lane.

You can have your pro shop dull the ball down a little bit to give it some more hook.

Slow your ball speed down to give it some time to read the break point early enough to get it back to the pocket.

You could get a heavier oil ball. I myself use a 3d offset high rev on both wood and synthetic lanes from medium to heavy oil and average well over 200 with it, so this ball can definately work. I sometimes need to adjust the surface depending on the condition, because I'll have the same problem you describe if the ball is polished and the lanes are well oiled.
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:41 AM
kennethortiz kennethortiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunat View Post
I don't bowl on Synthetics much mainly tournments. Here are my observations and things I do to score... First of all, I'm not a cranker like you, I'm high end stroker/low-end tweener style.... Being your a cranker, learn how to throw the ball more direct...move your feet to different spots.
I don't call myself a cranker. my style, approach, and release looks much more like a stroker but my ball after being released looks like a tweener and sometimes looks like a cranker but not really.

but I appreciate your input and will try to shorten my placement distance and maybe throw the ball a little more straight up. thanx
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Columbia 300 EPX-T1
Hammer 3D-Offset Hi-Rev

Speed: Mid
Revs: Mid
Style: Stroker

Ave: 173
HG: 254
HS: 634
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  #6  
Old 02-27-2007, 09:46 AM
kennethortiz kennethortiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenny360 View Post
You could get a heavier oil ball. I myself use a 3d offset high rev on both wood and synthetic lanes from medium to heavy oil and average well over 200 with it, so this ball can definately work.
I dont know what the polish is on my ball. how do I figure it out? also, how does the polish affect the ball? at what point and polish and grit do i see dramatic differences in my ball reaction.

Is it for heavier oil I want a more polish and for lighter oil I want a less polish? or is it the other way around?
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Columbia 300 EPX-T1
Hammer 3D-Offset Hi-Rev

Speed: Mid
Revs: Mid
Style: Stroker

Ave: 173
HG: 254
HS: 634
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  #7  
Old 02-27-2007, 10:02 AM
slap slap is offline
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Good topic. I have a tournament in wood house next month and I've been doing some reading to prepare. Things I've read so far...

1. Oil Changes
On wood oil is absorbed the lanes tend to dry out vs synthetic lanes oil is pushed down the lane creating carrydown

2. Friction
Wood creates more friction and ball will hook more. I guess balls that are "flippy" will really hard jump off the dry.

Keep searching around the bowling forums. There is a lot of good information on the boards and you can learn a lot.
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  #8  
Old 02-27-2007, 11:57 AM
BlackWidow95 BlackWidow95 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennethortiz View Post
I dont know what the polish is on my ball. how do I figure it out? also, how does the polish affect the ball? at what point and polish and grit do i see dramatic differences in my ball reaction.

Is it for heavier oil I want a more polish and for lighter oil I want a less polish? or is it the other way around?
My Black Widow after over 100 games started not getting back to the pocket like it used to.. So I went from 4000-Grit to 1000-Grit finish and I am VERY happy with the results.. The lower the grit, the earlier the ball breaks(meaning it gives the ball more time to find the pocket)..

Not sure if ur talking about a resurfacing though, just thought that might help??
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  #9  
Old 02-28-2007, 10:07 AM
kennethortiz kennethortiz is offline
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Default Grit For Synthetic

I'm not sure what the polish for my 3d Offset is because its an older ball and I bought it used but would you say I need a lower GRIT for synthetic than wood lanes?

Would it be smart to have one lower Grit synthetic lanes and one with higher GRIT for wood lanes. I could buy another one used on eBay for $20-$30 and since I love this ball I wouldn't mind doing this. I guess I could also use the lower GRIT on wood lanes when the lanes are overly flooded? Does that sound right?

Any other insights about syntheic vs. wood would also be much appreciated. thanx
__________________
Columbia 300 EPX-T1
Hammer 3D-Offset Hi-Rev

Speed: Mid
Revs: Mid
Style: Stroker

Ave: 173
HG: 254
HS: 634
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  #10  
Old 03-01-2007, 12:43 AM
bowlerbabe bowlerbabe is offline
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tighten up your line on synth lanes. move left as lanes dry up. I bowl three leagues on wood lanes and struggle to get my average but when I go and practice on synth lanes I always get about 20 or 30 pins over my average at least. bowling on different lanes and oil patterns is good for you to work on adapting to the lanes easier.
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